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​Full Draw Construction, LLC specializes in roof repair and maintenance in the Fox Valley and Oshkosh WI area. As a professional roofing company, we like to offer useful information for both homeowners and business owners in regards to roofing issues and needs. Read our list below to help you decide when its time to call a roofing company to help you.



-Check the roof every spring to make sure it is in good condition. Remember that even if you don't use your attic, a leaky roof can cause problems like mold and mildew on walls or furniture inside. You may also notice an increase of water stains appearing on ceilings and windowsills too.



-If there is any water damage on the ceiling inside of your home,  roof repair should be the first thing you do. If it has been a while since roof damage, there may still be some water getting into your attic and seeping through ceilings to get inside of the home. It can be a simple as roof shingles being too old to prevent water from getting inside the underlayment to be causing the issue. 



-If you see roofing material that is cracked and deteriorating, or if there are any signs of moss or algae growing on the roof decking or roof flashing at your home,  roof repair may be needed. If these issues have been around for a while without being corrected, water could still be getting into your attic and causing damage or rot to the decking, roof joists, or roof sheathing.

-Dark streaks on the ceiling and water stains in the attic are also clues that roof repair is needed. 

-Loud, gurgling sounds from your gutters may be a sign of roof leakages as well; this can be caused by crushed shingles, missing roof vent flash or shingles curling.

-If you see roofing nails or roof leaks, this is a sign that your roof may need repair work done soon so it doesn't continue getting worse and costing more money for repairs down the line.  You should also lookout for signs of uneven roof surfaces like tiles that are higher than others or even sunken in. 

-If during an inspection period we notice any problems with roofing on your own or if customers mention them to us, we like to get on the roof and take care of roof repair work as soon as possible. 

-If you notice any roofing problems, call Full Draw Construction today for a roof inspection and find out what roof repair services are needed!



Body: During the colder months when it is below 40 degrees outside with no snow on your roof or ice on the ground which could be caused by ice jams, roof repair work can be done safely. 

Otherwise, roofing companies will need to wait for the roof to thaw and dry out before the roof fix is able to happen as ice or snow could cause roof leaks in many different ways (causing even more problems). You could get ice dams in the winter, roof leaks during the summer, or roof rot due to standing water. 

The roof repair work will include replacing any damaged shingles, flashing a chimney that has had ice dams on it for years (I bet you're wondering how those got there!), and installing an ice barrier over your entire roof which can get rid of all future.

Tommy we get a lot of people asking questions and searching for information on shingling their roof, and here's, the question any. What do you thing about homeowners? Doing their own roof work? Cuz? It can be kind of dangerous.
It's. Very dangerous: do you know that a third of construction fatalities happen from people falling off of roofs? I didn't know that, but it's, not surprising yeah. Well, if a homeowner is going to get up on a roof because they want to shingle it, they have to make sure they have the proper safety equipment, harness a line attached to the ridge or a staging with safety rails around it.
You have to protect yourself. All the things that a professional would bring you the job, which is why a lot of us just make the call absolutely, but maybe we've, got a lower roof. Maybe there's, a porch roof or a dog house, or a shed exactly you want to shingle that roof all right.
So how do we get started? Doing those well all right? Well, let's start at the bottom right here and start with piece of drip edge, aluminum drip edge. This is eight inch goes against the bottom like this, and I guess the process is the same, no matter what size roof we have right now.
I don't, know high what size, no matter, what it's. All the same. Now, this drip edge is actually to break the surface tension when the water runs down the shingle, its clings to the edge of the shingle, runs down and wants to run back up.
This stops it and runs down, and this little kicker right here makes the droplets fall away from the fascia boy and that's. Part of the reason why you do not have this tight to the fascia there's, a big gap there right, I like to have a gap about the thickness of my fingers, because I don't want the water droplets clinging to The fascia board causing it to rot, so what I like to do is I like to take it and push it up tight to the fascia board and I put a little pencil line at the top of it on each end of the house.
I then snap a line between them to get a nice straight edge, pull the drip edge down about a half an inch away from that line, and that creates a nice gap between the kicker and the fascia board. Now I just nail it in place now.
These are just inch and a quarter. Galvanized roofing nails and I'm going to do the same thing on the gable ends all right. Now we're, treating this roof as if it was an unheated building, all right, so no self sealing membrane at all.
Okay, so we're, going right to felt paper yeah, and this is actually a 30-pound felt paper. We don't, lay it right on top of the drip edge, just tack it in place. The purpose of this is what this is. Actually, it forms a release between the roof, sheathing and the underside of the roof shingles, so they can move independently, but it will also absorb any condensation if it should form under the roof.
Shingles. Now the shingle that we're going to put on this roof is a standard. Three tab. Shingle been around for years, one two: three right: now: it's, a 12 inch wide shingle, and if you notice this part right here, these are this is actually a tire that's activated by the hot Sun.
So when that Sun heats up the shingle, it actually glues the bottom part of the tab to the shingle less chance of it blowing up now the shingles are 36 inches wide. They are 12 inches high and we want to have six inch over overlap with a 5 inch reveal.
So this space right here from the bottom of the second shingles of the first shingle below it that you reveal exactly 5 inches. So now what I like to do is lay out the shingle onto the roof, so the shingles are 12 inches high.
So I hooked my tape on the bottom here and I slide it down 1/2 an inch now I can mark 12 inches to the top of the first row of shingles, so the shingle is going to overhang the drip edge, a half-inch right that helps from also For surface tension, so I want to mock 5 inch increments on both sides and snap, a line between that's, where our exposure exactly now, this chalk lines really ensure that our rows are going to be straight across the roof.
Now these vertical lines are placed every six inches and that will set our singles off perfect all the way up the roof. Okay. Now let me show you what I did here if you're, looking at the shingle here's, the bottom part of the shingle that you see as you look on the roof, I want to move this glue tab down as close To this leading edge as I can so I cut away that part of the shingle that you see that allows me to take this shingle and slide it down on to the roof.
Overhanging my drip edge about a quarter of an inch all right. We're ready for our first course now. This is a started strip right here. It actually does two things. First of all, it moves this glue strip down to the edge where I want it, lessening the chance for this to blow up, but also it fills the space right here.
So you, don't, see felt paper between it. Now I'm just going to nail this in place, holding the shingle on both vertical and horizontal line. Like that now I want to cut my shingle, so each row is offset six inches from the previous row you to cap the roof.
We cut. The shingle into each individual tab and overlap them five inches all right that's, how you shingle a roof to make it straight and water type nice job Tommy. Thank you. You you

​Good afternoon, ladies and gentlemen, your average grouper here, if you weren't here for last video. We went over installation of starter strips on your roof. Today we are going to be going over how to actually start your shingles.

When it comes to singling in your group. There are several ways to do it, but there is one method that most manufacturers or singles actually recommend, and that is the stagger pattern. It's, five shingles high staggered approximately eight inches at the seams, and you continue that all the way up your roof and I'll - show you how to do that right now.
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So now that you've got your starter strips for your roof replacement installed all the way along your eaves and up your Gables first thing you're gonna want to do is take a full shingle and you're gonna go Flush along the eave starter and flush along the rake starter, and now that you had that in place that shingle will get nailed just like that, most commonly you're, going to use a four nail pattern unless you're in a High wind zone and that's, your code here in Ontario, we have a high wind zone code, so we'd, have to put six nails so how you nail? That is, you go one at the end for evenly spaced in the center and another one at the end, and that I'll give you your six nails if you're, doing four nails you just evenly spaced four nails all the way across your shingle. So now that you've got your first single installed. What you're gonna want to do is cut your second shingle an easy way to do this.

If you have any standard roofing knife, it's, approximately six to eight inches. That gives you your exact mark where you want to cut it or there's, another method for cutting shingles. You can go off to whip up the center of your shingle and that'll.
Give you your stagger so as for this method, I've, lined it up to the center of my other single that I have upside down here. I'm gonna take my knife right here and I'm gonna, follow it straight down so using one single to mark your other single.
To do your first cut is one method of doing it. What I prefer to do, because I am a little more experienced, I will take my knife and I will mark out my first, my second and that'll, be my cut. So now you got your first single installed.

You cut your five courses. What you're gonna, do it you're gonna take your first single or your next single sorry, you're gonna go flush on your gable again, and if you come in here, you can see the Double laminate line on the shingle there, you're gonna want to match the very bottom of your shingle up to that line.
So I'll show you an example here like so, and you can see how it's perfectly matched up right there to Deline. So when it comes to nailing your shingle, most manufacturers put a white line or a pink line, or some some sort of line on the shingle and that's.
Going to give you your guide on where to nail. Sometimes, during shipping the shingle gets worn out and you won't, be able to see that line anymore. So I'll. Give you an example here of what you're, actually nailing for.
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So if you look at the end of your shingle, you can see there's. A doubled laminate there in the center, where the bottom of the shingle on the top of the shingle cross over each other. That's, where you want to nail the shingle don't nail too high, or it won't, have enough strength to hold against wind don't nail too low, because your nails are going to be Exposed on your roof, so when you're chingling your roof and you're.
Actually, installing your nails always make sure your seam line does not land on top of another nail. So if you're nailing this shingle, they say your nails are always approximately six inches away from the water lines, because those can eventually grab water, rust out and cause a leak.
So now that you got your stagger started, what you're, going to want to do is use full singles all the way across the far end gable. You're, going to continue that all the way up and then you're, going to start with another full shingle and continue the same pattern all the way up to gable.
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So now that you've gotten down to the far end gable of your roof, what you're gonna want to do! Is you're, going to lay your single in place where it's, going to go and, as you can see it's overhanging? What you're going to want to do is cut that straight with your starter strip below and that's. How you finish off this end gable.

Hi I'm, Shannon from home improvements. Calm in today's. Video, I want to just show you how to basically get started on a roofing project, so this video is going to deal with getting the underlay laman started, which in our case we're using a grip guard or ice and water protection.
Whichever one you prefer, as well as getting the starter strip and the first row of shingles going so we've, obviously stripped the roof off already. As you can see, you can see our other video dealing with stripping shingles and we've gone around and made sure all the nails are pounded down and that there's, nothing protruding.
All the boards are tight and and solid. There's, no rot, so we've, basically got the roof all prepared. We're ready to shingle, depending on your type of shingles that you're using some manufacturers.
Don't recommend shingling over a roof that has individual boards with spaces like this, they may recommend that you sheet the entire roof right over top of this. Well, you either rip this off and reseed it or sheet over this with 7/16 or three-eighths plywood.
In this case, I'm, not really too worried about it. The space is very minimal and I've already done the other side of this roof four or five years ago, and there hasn't been any problems so but just double check with your manufacturer.
They may void your warranty. So just be aware of that, if you decide to go ahead, the way that I am without sheathing it that you may void your warranty, so, okay, so roof is prepped. We've got some of the ice guard rolled out so that we're just over in this corner, ready to go basically what we want to do for that before we get started, is we want to install a drip edge on This edge now I'm - are using the existing one here, just because it was in good shape.
If you're, adding a new one. Basically, all you want to do is go along the eave. Add your roof with this aluminum drip edge, whatever color you decide to choose and just install it with a few few shingle nails holding it down.
Okay, no rocket science, there just get it on there. Don't worry about the you need it up! That edge you up the rake end, but we aren't going to worry about that rate. At this stage I'll, get to that a little bit further down.
Okay, so once we have that, we want to then measure our grip guard material and at each end of the roof. I want to measure up a measurement in regards to the width, your grip guard, so that we can snap a straight line to get the grip guard running straight.
Your eave here, probably isn't straight okay. You want your grip guard to be on to this metal for sure I try not to have it hanging over because it just looks bad the shingles we will hang over, but the grip guard.
I don't, so just make sure that the grip guard is going to seal onto this metal by at least an inch when you determine the height of that line. Okay, so snap, that line is a straight lot guide. Get your grip guard up! There roll your grip guard out in relationship to that line.
Now the grip guard. Basically, it's, a eve protection, and so this in this case it's, helping for ice dams and that sort of thing now, depending where, where in the world you are, that might not be an issue for you.
You might be able to just use 15 pound roofing felt for the whole roof in this area. There's, an issue with possible ice damming and, and that's a whole different thing. I'm, not going to go too into the explanation of that, but basically it's, just water and snow freezing and melting and freezing and melting and working its way backwards up the shingles.
So this is just an extra layer. Protection to prevent that from getting in the house in my area here this edge of that material needs to be 12 inches inside the exterior wall below. So actually it would be inside the house line and because we're a little bit lower slope here, we're, actually going to do a second roll to get us 24 inches inside of that wall.
Okay, so basically we've got about a 12 a 24 inch overhang on our roof here, so my wall inside the house, the exterior wall is somewhere under this area, so we're, just trying to be 12 inches inside of that and in my case 24.
So we're, going to use a second roll of this once we get going okay, so this material it's. Much like a shingle, it's. You know got the same kind of makeup as a shingle, but it's got this backing on the back that you can see here that we peel off as we go to help it stick down once the Sun gets on there for a couple days, it'll, just blew it bond it right down to the plywood Or the board's that you have here for your roof.
So so I'm going to roll this out and I'll. Just use the odd I got my stapler. We're, going to use the odd staple in it just to roughly hold it in place until it bonds down. Obviously, once we shingle over it, it's.
All that's, going to hold it down to this material. Also, as you shingle over it and obviously puncture it full of a few holes, it kind of closes right up around those nails. Just in case somebody's, wondering about what.
Why bother? If we're just going to punch it full of a thousand holes, but it does kind of self seal itself, so so I'm just going to roll this out a little bit at a time here I've Got my line up here, I know you can't see that I'm. Trying to keep this straight, keep as many wrinkles out of it as I can. We've got this backing started it's. It's, basically split in the middle, so you've, got a top edge and a back edge to kind of peel out.
One other thing that I just you might notice me look over my shoulder always be aware of where the edge of the roof is. So you don't fall off. You just always got to be leery of that. Okay, so we're kind of getting that down.
It was hotter today that would seal down quite well right away. We're, just putting a few staples up in this edge just to kind of tack it there. It's a little breezy today I don't want the wind to rip it off on us.
I'm just going to peel that out. All the way - and I'll, come back and get the bottom edge. If you get a little bit off this line, don't, be too worried about it, but try to stay as close as you can to it, which is just help.
Everything stay nice and straight, look back, make sure you don't have a whole bunch of wrinkles. Those wrinkles will just kind of show right through the shingles. Even once you're finished. If it's really wrinkled bad get rid of that.
Now on the bottom, we've got the same thing I mentioned about pounding all the nails down in the roof early on in the video and part of it is when you're, pulling that plastic out they get snagged on any that are sticking up.
So if you can kind of get them down, I've actually got feels like they got something under there got an old nail under there. Okay, so we just had an old nail that popped out underneath that membrane.
Stick it down. I'm, going to throw a few staples along this end here as well. Okay, just to keep the wind from getting under it, not too worried about down here it's. It's, going to stick down to that metal pretty quickly.
Once the Sun comes around and we'll be getting a starter roll on there as well anyways, okay, so we've got that started down, and the next thing you want to do is basically to get started with the shingling actually before I start that I'm, going to talk about this drip edge on the side of the roof.
So we've got a gable roof here, so we need a piece of this drip edge. This is the material right here. Okay, you'll notice. I'm using two different ones. I've got a little bit different one here that I can get in my area.
You may not be able to get that style, so you might be using this all the way around. That's. Fine. Now, as we progress up this roof, I've already talked that I'm, going to do another roll of the ice-barrier eye shield up here and then a from that point on in my area I've got to use two layers of 15-pound roofing felt on the entire roof.
Under the shingles okay along these edges, the gable ends. I actually want this to be on top of that felt on top of this as well, so that, if you can imagine if this is your side of your roof, okay, this roof goes out there.
If water or snow or anything is driving this way and gets actually between this and your shingles, it can run under your shingle, come out here and actually get on to the felt paper or the the whatever you got for underlayment and it'll Run to the bottom of the roof, without going into the wood or soaking into the wood.
Okay, if you had this underneath if this was under that under your underlayment, the rain and that could just go right between them and right into your attic or whatever do some damage so so on the ends.
You want this to be over top of all your underlayment down here we've got it underneath, because water is rolling down and it's, then it's onto here and oh it into the gutters. So, okay, so two different ways to do that now because of the wind today I can't roll.
This whole roof out with paper. Taffet's just going to rip off before I get it shingled. So what I'm, going to do, I'm, going to actually leave this off until we get a little bit of the shingle started, and then I can once the shingles are over here on this edge.
I'll. Just come and tuck it underneath there and get it started, and then you know once we get a little bit further. It's just because it's such a long length. If I, if I just tack it down here and leave it hanging up there, the winds going to rip it off in this crazy country today, okay, so you will see at some point in my other video showing installing, like actually shingling the roof.
You're, going to see that piece on there, and hopefully I'll - remember to mention about it again. So, okay now to get the roof started, we've got our underlayment perfect. We're good on that end. What we're going to do this is the shingle we're using.
We're using a laminated architectural shingle as our actual finished shingle. So you can see we've got some doubled up areas here. When these are all done, it looks really good. It looks like you know, a shake roof or you know a nicer nicer style roof.
Instead, just a three tab or interlocking which most areas and can't get anymore but anyways. This is just a normal three tab here, so this is basically your other option. It's. Three tab rooms like that now with the three tabs or architecture, all you need to start with a starter strip.
What that is is basically just an extra layer of shingles right at the edge of the roof. Okay, over top of your underlayment, you can buy a starter strip from your different shingle companies. Really all you need to do is buy a pack of three tab, shingles same color as what you're using for your main shingles take the shingle.
Normally, this is how it would be on the roof turn it half a turn. This way use this as your starter strip. Okay, so we will put this on our first row of shingles will line up completely with it and what that does.
Is it just gives us a double layer of protection right here, plus the underlayment okay, so just cheaper to buy a three tab and do it that way you're still getting the same, still getting the same thing now to get that started.
We want to have a nice straight line, just like we did with the with the underlayment, so we're going to do the same thing. We're, going to measure the shingle we're, going to saw where we're going to measure this this one here.
This is the three tab. Shingle we're, going to use for the starter strip and I'm, just measuring the width of it and what I want when it's all said and done is ideally, I'd like it to Hang over about a quarter inch past the drip cap? Okay, so that means whatever this measurement is, which i think is thirteen and a quarter.
We actually want to line about thirteen inches up from the corner that drip edge to follow, to get us nice and Street, and that'll. Give us our quarter inch overhang. Some people, like more I wouldn't, go any less than a quarter inch on your overhang depending how crooked your roof is.
You may not. You know some spots that might not hang over quite that much so this fairly street. So, like I said, I'm, going to mark my measurement up here on this end and that end, then I'm going to hand my partner there, the chalk line we're, going to snap that line so that We can get started here.
Okay, so we've got our mark out here. I'm, going to roll out the chalk line. Give that to my helper, he's, going to go all the way to the other end of the roof, and we've got a mark down there, corresponding to the same thing.
Are you making out you're good? There, okay - and I'm, going to stretch this out and get a nice, nice and taunt. So we get a nice true line just like that. Okay, so that's, our our guide line. Basically, so we can hopefully get a nice straight start to this shingle job.
I usually like to use that do the starter strip just by hand nailing and dragging the holes along and a lot of times you don't, have the luxury of having a scaffold to work off right here. So you're working up on the roof.
You know basically, hang over the edge nailing upside down the nice thing, with the scaffold that we set up. It does a couple different things that's. It's mainly for the camera guy to have a decent area to shoot from, but it also is a bit of fall protection so that we don't have to be harnessed off.
We have to be very careful still out at the outer edges, so we probably should be harnessed off still there, but this gives us the fall protection. We need on this side. Okay, so I'm, going to get rid of my stapler.
Okay. So remember, I said we're, going to turn that one upside down just like it is here now and the same thing like like I said we want to hang off a quarter inch on this edge, which are our line, will give us there.
We also want to hang off about that same amount or even half an inch on the far end, so just want to take the time to get started out here correctly, and I can see that this is already a little bit. I think we're going to be alright.
It's a little goofy here, because this drift badge is kind of bent out of shape to match up. On top of this gutter guard. Okay, so mark line the top the shingle up up there on there and we're going to nail up.
I'm going to stay away from this end, so I can get that piece in. We're, going to nail about halfway up the shingle. I'm, going to put five five nails in this one. I would normally have one out there and I'll, be able to add it once I have that trim work in there.
Okay, so you just want to keep going along all the way along the length of the roof. Putting the starter strip down don't worry too much about what's going on down here. We're, worried about this line.
We have up here so that we get started out nice and straight, but the shingles in tight to each other. A few nails out of here. You may want to wear safety glasses just depending how crazy your nailing.
Okay, I'll, do one more just to get a little ways along here and you could use an air nailer for this. I will for the main part of the roof, but, like I said I just like to have nailing to get started here.
It's, just one less thing in your way. Okay, so you go all the way along the roof, cut it off with your whatever you decide you wan na for overhang down there, and then the other part of getting started is getting your first actual course of the finished shingles on the roof.
Now, with this particular shingle, we want to be nailing there's, a doubled up section here we don't want to be nailing above this tar strip up here. Otherwise they're, not going to hold for the wind load that they're supposed to.
We need to basically nail right along that tar strip and that'll, be in the double layer of the shingle. You can kind of see there's. A line here you don't want to have any or nails below that because then they're going to be exposed.
So there's kind of you got a you know, maybe three-quarters of an inch area there to nail into, and you want to be fairly precise with that now we're, starting with a full full length shingle here on this very First, roll: we're flushing.
It up really just flushing it up to the starter strip that we put on all the way along narrow, get down there there and out there, and these particular ones they for my winds and roof slope and everything they recommend six nails in this one.
I'm staying back from the end, so we can put that trim in again after I'm nailing rate at the tar strip. So I came in about an inch or I would be coming in about an inch from each end and then space the other four nails out within the shingle.
Okay, just like that. So for this role we want to just do that same thing. All the way along right on top of this one, that we did, I'll, do one more here, the subsequent rows. After this, we'll deal with in the next video, so you'll need to look for that.
So we're, just budding the shingle together coming in about an inch into the tar strip nail length. If you're using an air nailer, one inch inch and an eighth nails are more than enough with the air nailer.
For the main body of the roof, the ridge cap is a little different. You're, going to need longer nails to get through all the layers you have. We'll talk about that in the other video too, but if you anything your hand nailing, and you should, even if your air nailing, you should have some hand nails around as well, because you're going to need them, you could Use the one-inch nails, but I wouldn't, recommend it because you're just going to beat your fingers to death.
So I like to use about an inch and a half nail, gives you lots of room to get your fingers on it. Get the nail started without smashing your finger with the hammer. So so we just work work along like that, and really the only concern here to watch for is that you're, not going to end up with this seam in this layer, lining right up with the seam and the one below try to stay At least three or four inches off set, these two shingles are different lengths, so I didn't have to cut one or the other to get started to make that happen, so it should work out right to the end of the roof, but just Be aware of that, as you go, my forgetting anything I don't think so I think that pretty much handles it.
So, like said in the next video you're, going to see us do more with this roof as we get up higher, we're, going to have some vents to go around ridge cap all that kind of stuff we're going to deal with that molding down there as well.
So so, hopefully this gave you some a good idea on how to get started on your roofing project, and you know we always enjoy when people come to the forum and let us know how their project turned out after they.
Ve used our videos for some help, or you know maybe get stumped at one. Certain thing we didn't cover it or you, didn't quite understand what I was saying come to the forum post. Your question up and I'll - be sure to answer you as soon as I can so other than that you want to get a little more sick of me.
You can follow me on Facebook, Twitter. You can check out our patreon campaign. All that kind of fun stuff and just stay in touch with us and also any of the videos bar as you watch and you like them, click the thumbs up button, not a hope.
So, thanks a lot.

I shat in here from house improvements calm. Today we're, going to shoot a video, and we're, going to explain to you how to install a new PVC window in a new construction scenario. We've got a series of windows along the wall.
Here we left one out just to do this. Video in and basically we'll. Just take a few minutes to get set up and we'll be ready to go okay. So we're working at a new garage construction site that I've been working on, so the gradual has been Tyvek and we're all ready to cut the window opening out.
So I'm just going to simply the window open right here. I'm just going to simply take my knife. I'm, going to find the edge of the opening and I'm, going to cut about an inch and a half back or not so wider than the opening goes.
All the way down the side and bolt the same across the bottom. Now you could put a mark pencil mark there, whatever, if you dont trust yourself, but long as it's close in that range and then at the top.
I'm going to do the same thing, so we're, basically going cutting that out an inch and a half around the hole opening to expose the plywood or OSB whatever you're using and then up here at The top I'm, going to make a couple.
Angled cuts and I usually need one down here to just create a couple flaps. So what we're going to do. Are we're, going to create a sill pan and make the install so everything's watertight we.
Ve got the room to do this here on the plywood. So the first thing I've got to do. I've got to actually use a special primer for this. This is what I'm using. I'm, creating a sill pan out of this product here and it'll all stick on around the hole and cover the whole Sylla, but I do need to use a primer.
Some products do some going this particular one requires a primer, so I'm, going to go ahead and just spray that all the way around and just take a few minutes to tack up, and then we can apply our product okay.
So we've gone around the perimeter out on this older face, and I've tried to spray about an inch and a half wide. You know we're just trying to cover the plywood, not necessarily the wrap, and I also want to do up about three inches up the sides here and here and this whole sill bottom getting a few strings of glue going everywhere.
Okay, and that just takes a couple minutes to set up - hopefully, I don't have glue on the lens of the camera and this product here resists. Oh, I guess this brand is called there's, lots of different brands out there.
I'm, not specifically telling you. This is the one you need to use or not use this brand here, like I said, we need the primer on the wood surfaces and we just got to let that sit for a couple minutes.
So what I'm going to do is just prep the length of these a little bit. So what you want to do is measure your opening and add about three inches, so I believe these are 33. I think 30 inches. So I'm, going to cut this at about 36 inches long, just cut the strip off that'll be the bottom piece that we're going to put on there before we put that in there there's, some plastic corners that we're, going to place right down in here, just because that bottom corner is a hard spot to seal up properly.
So they've, come out with these here, so to install that we've also got the glue there, but basically, just put a good bead of silicone in the corner and press that right down in it the same thing.
On this side press these rate down into the corner like so I'm just going to give them a little staple a couple staples just to hold them in place. So, okay, so we've got that in place. Now I can put in this first piece of this membrane and it just has a sticky back on it, so you peel off the back portion and the one thing you want to remember when doing this is we want to layer every subsequent layer so that, as Water, if water does get behind your siding or anything, and it's coming down the wall, each layer is the upper layers, are overlapping the bottom layers so that you're shedding the water property.
So this first one just lines it up with the bottom of the opening, like that, I'm sticking. It passed that two or three inches extra that we added on to it, press it in really good make sure it's stuck like so then we're, going to cut another one to go in the bottom of the actual opening To start creating the sill or the pan, I should say, and this one I want it the same length as what we just did so in this case it's, 36 inches again, and this one.
What's going to happen? Is it's going to sit in here, but it's going to we're, going to stick it out about an inch and a half and then fold that edge around the corner? So again I go to peel the back off, so I'm sticking out about an inch and a half down onto the one we already did again.
You can see how I'm overlapping, the bottom one, so we got at the right direction. Stick these sides on, and I'm, going to make a little cut right against the side of the opening break down to the bottom of the sill same thing.
On this side, break down to that plastic corner, we put in there stretching it back and sealing it right to the bottom of the window. Sill there, okay, and then we're, going to go up the side.
So I've got a narrower one for that. You wouldn't necessarily have to change sizes, but so this one's, going to go right from about three inches up top to overlapping this one by a couple inches again the same brand product, just a little narrower roll.
I believe this outer face is UV resistant, for I think it's 20 days or something like that, but it's not made to be to sit out and not ever be covered up. I don't know. I guess the Sun must break it down over time.
Okay, again, I'm peeling. The back of. I'm, just putting it flush to the edge of our opening so, and I want to make sure I have this flap up out of the way push it on real good and flat a little bit of a wrinkle in there.
But okay and the same thing on this side: okay, so we've got our two sides on. I'm, going to go back down to the pan, but it's, not maybe necessarily necessary that you do it. But I like to cover the whole bottom of the wood sill, and what this is is that if any water ever gets through its protecting your framing from rotting, oh it is really what it is and then you'll see once we Put the window in we're, going to create a couple of wee poles in the seal on the window, so that, if moisture does get in there, it runs out.
We've. Also, I don't know. If you can really tell from here, we've, also slightly sloped these sills, so there. The back inside edge is just a quarter of an inch higher, not even about an eighth of an inch just again create a bit of a slope, so the water will drain out and it's, not saying you're, going to get water in there, but it can definitely happen.
So we're, trying to do everything possible to prevent it from happening, but if it does get in there, we want to have some prevention there as well. Okay. So this one I'm just going to cover the bottom of the sill with it and again I primed that whole area, so we get a good bond run right inside.
Stick that beam down, and I'm, going to stick just a little strip up here, just to help hold those back. But if you're cutting up here, just be sure you aren't, cutting remembering that you just installed peel the back off.
We've got that protective corner in there. That's, sealing the actual bottom corner up. I just want to protect a little more wood there. Okay, so we've got the sides. At the bottom, we've got the sill panel made.
We've got the side protected. We're, going to put a strip across the top, and then we're ready to just let the peel in doing so this one. Here again, it really should be about the same length as what we put on the bottom when you're, doing a renovation window where you're, replacing the existing window and they're, still siding and everything in the Way this stuff, it's, a little tougher to put on a lot of times.
I just make sure I use extra silicone to install the window instead of this. But when you're doing now, you've got all the room in the world to apply this, so why not? So we just want to make sure that that flap of house wrap up there isn't behind this product.
We want this behind the house, wrap just slipping it up behind press it in really good. Okay, we've got still got that freedom to go once we have the wind wall in this is going to get taped to there and up the corners and everything and again that's, just creating this flow so that the water, if it gets through here, Comes down onto this, if this was underneath, it could get in the water could flow down and get in behind all this, so we've got everything lap properly.
I'm, going to check the level of my window sill from side to side this one's, nice and level. Yo, you don't want to just set your window in there, though right on the sill. You want to create a bit of space, so I'm using these pieces of 3/8 plywood.
I'm just setting them in there and I'm just going to tack them in place, so they don't move and the window will sit down on here and that will create a space inside. This will create an air space between the window in here so that you can get that insulated properly.
Okay, so we've got that sitting there. Something important to remember when you're, doing a series of windows like what we're doing here, we've got four actually in a row all the same elevation is you know you want to try to stay consistent.
So they are straight and level and equal to each other. So we've got this all prepped up, we drop a wheel, drive fit the window, which is just a matter of before we get any silicone around. The opening lift the window end drive fit, it makes sure everything works in this case.
I know what's going to work all these last three did okay. So if you've watched our other window installation for a renovation type window. This part will be a bit of the same repetition, but what we've got here that there isn't a nailing flange.
Here I like to use a renovate. They call it a renovation, brick mold, and, as you can see it, isn't. It isn't, just a thin flange that you put the nails through and cover it with the siding. This is the finished product that you see once the sidings on, but what it does have is these strips that pull out and behind them as a channel where you can screw the window into place through and then the strips go back in and it covers everything Up nice and neat, so I'm just going to pull those off, so those are out of the way.
You also want to go around the back edge and just you know, wipe any dust. You know. Sometimes the windows sat around and shipping or something for a while, and they're dusty on the back here, because we will be putting a bead of silicone around the opening.
We want it to bond nicely to the back of the vinyl window. This wind, this particular window, doesn't open it's, just a fixed, /, fixed type window, very basic, very simple. Some somewhat different brands of windows are a little more floppy than others.
This is just Rockin on the ground, but some you can actually rack from side to side or make them untrue. So always when you're, putting that type of window in just make sure to measure corner to corner diagonally on the outside before you get it all screwed in.
So if you've got a rack. It a little bit to get it plumb and straight and square that you can. These ones are really good and solid and never had a problem with those, but so what I'm going to do.
I'm, going to hop back up top. I'm, going to put a nice generous bead of silicone around the perimeter of the opening. Then I'm going to grab the window. Stick it in and we'll start fastening into place.
Okay, so I've gone around the top and the two sides, with the really nice big, generous bead of silicone all the way around when it comes to the bottom, I've, come down to the corner and I've, come in, I'll, come in about three-four inches still with a nice, generous bead, and I'm, going to stop and leave it about a two-inch gap, and then I can continue on and do about the same thing Over here, on the other side leave a couple inches.
What that does any moisture that does ever get in here through condensation or anything, and because we have a slope on the sill. This gives it somewhere that it can actually escape if it needs to. Now being that it's on the bottom, there's, a lot real low likelihood that any rain or anything is going to drive up from the bottom up into there.
So so we've got that all in place. Something I forgot to do was I want to get a mark on the outside here on the on an edge, so I know side to side where the windows centered up. If you have two people doing this, you could have somebody inside telling you so I've got thirty-two and a quarter thirty and a quarter, so I've got two inches of overlap, so basically, I just need a mark here. At about should about an inch and then when I slide over to that, I know that my window is pretty close to being centered okay, so I'm going to lift the window into place.
We've got our block sitting here. It should be level, but once I have it in place, I'll, just double check that it is true and slide it over the side to side, and we should be all right kind of start by setting your bottom sill on those blocks that we Attach there and then just slide the window into place slide over till I can see my pencil mark on the side, so we've got it sitting in there.
I'm just going to grab the level again set it on the bottom, just to double-check level levels. Good, the windows were square, but we'll just check the plumb as well, and it's. Fine, too, so that window is good right where it's sitting we've got it embedded back into the silicon.
I'm, going to mount it with screws. Basically, I'll, put a screw on each top corner to start with, and then I'll, explain the screwing after that. Okay, so the screws that you should use for this type is not just a deck screw, because they have a tendency to pull right through the plastic.
You want to use a truss head screw, which is got a really big flathead with a flat back on it, so it once it tightens up to that vinyl surface it's, got lots of surface area to suck back and not actually pull The screw through the vinyl so use a truss headed screw, make sure it's.
Equivalently long enough to you know, grab into a good inch of wood back in there and we want to place our screws about every 16 inches apart on a window like this to properly fasten it in. So I'm just going to finish screwing.
It off and getting it secured okay, so I've got all my screws put into place. I'm, just taking a scrap block and I'm, going to go around the outside and squeegee off any excess silicone that came out just so that we don't have that in the way, and we're trying to do the siding, creating any little lumps and bumps there.
I'm just going all the way around, not squeegee off as good as I can, and as well on. The bottom just got to watch when you're. Doing the bottom that you don't reseal up spots that you tried to leave empty or without silicone okay, so we've got that I'm, going to come back up top here and tape.
My house wrap to the membrane and obviously I'm just using the tuck tape that you normally would use on your house wrap. I can find the end of the roll, so just be sure that that flap up top is cut up high enough.
That you're taping on to the membrane not really onto the window. Okay, so just press that on really good, we need a couple little spots up on those handle cut. To me a couple. Little strips, I mean seal it up, really nice, okay, so we got that in there.
Just look down here make sure none of our cuts are exposed. No everything's covered up there. Okay, that's. That now I can put on the screw covers the caps that go on the channel there. If you have a rubber, mallet or a rubber handle hammer that just goes snaps right in there pretty nice, and it gives a very attractive finish when you're all done.
I think I like this type of window. The renovation brick mold is down the road. If I mean obviously at some point, somebody's going to have to change these windows in 30 years, or whenever you know you don't have to take the siding off to do it pop these caps out.
Remove the screws pry the window out and you don't have to disturb everything else around it. We're with the nailing fin it's under whatever your exterior finishes, so you've got to either cut it wider and finish refinish it with some type of finish or you know, restock or reside your whole house.
So so this is nice for down the road and it's. I think it's pretty attractive to me. A little wider trim work around the windows. Okay, so I'll, finish popping on that last one, and then we'll. Maybe have a quick look inside and wrap things up.
The last thing I just want to show you now we're inside the garage. You can see we've got nice equal space on each son, really on all the sides, and that'll make it easier for us to spray home.
You want to have a good quarter-inch or in this case we've got a good half an inch all the way around. It gives you lots of room to get in there and insulate properly, so that's. Our video on installing a window and new construction, it demonstrates how to make a proper sill pan.
There are a few different variations of the sill pan, but the basic idea is to get it all covered up and sealed up as best you can with a membrane, and again, the main thing to remember on the membrane is lapping.
It working your way from the bottom up so that all your upper pieces overlap the one below it so that's, that's about it. We will. We do have another video on YouTube here on our Channel. That explains an insulating window, both using spray foam and the bad insulation.
So you can check that out. We do have the form on our website at house improvements comm! You can go to the forum. Ask any questions about this video or any other video or anything. You want related to building construction and I'll do my best to answer it.
If I don't, maybe there's, somebody else there. That does have the answer for you. So I guess that's it for now we've I'll, see you next time.

How's? It going everybody welcomes back to part 5 of how to build a shed, slash Playhouse. Today, we're, going to be concentrating specifically on the roofing paper, as well as the bird boards on the side of the shed stay tuned with us.
It's going to be a process. Nobody likes this portion of the job. However, this is a very big and more very important portion of this project, so we're, going to show you guys how we did this. The way that we like to there's, a lot of different ways to do this, and if you watch videos, everybody has their own way, but this is going to be ours.
Hopefully, you get some sort of insight on how to do this. On our style, so the first thing you want to do on this size of the roof that we're working here is you obviously, don't want to bring a full roll of rolling paper roofing paper out onto your roof, just based On the fact that it's too bulky too heavy too much material to be brought upon the top, so just get a quick measurement of an idea of how much material you're gonna actually gonna Need for this roof and you to want to go by two: maybe afoot: half a foot over on each side, so about afoot.
So let's say that this is a span of ten feet on the roof. You want to make sure that you're, cutting out close to around 11 feet worth of material. Just get an idea of how much you're, going to have to cut how many sheets and then go ahead and bring those up to the roof, and the only reason we're.
Making. These measurements are just based on the size of this roof if it was a full house. Obviously, we'd, be bringing the whole roll up, and all you're going to do is roll this down on the ground level, um roll.
It out to about 11 feet, the edges do not have to be perfectly cut again. This is going to go up to the top of the roof, and you're, going to be able to make your cuts as needed up on top to make sure that everything is somewhat flushed or straight.
When you're, actually cutting off the roof, so just get a general idea. As long as you're going over ten feet, you know work with what you have, but as long as you're, going over ten feet on the roof, ll, be perfectly fine.
These do not need to be cut perfectly, while on the ground level, and all I'm doing here - is cutting out five sheets and the only reason is we're, going to have two on each side and one big piece hanging Over the ridge board area the point of the actual roof - and this is how easy it is to cut this material.
All you need is a razor blade line it up and then pull your arm back to make the cut that's. It just makes sure that you guys have a good sufficient amount of razors for this entire project. So once you have the bottom one measured out to roughly around 11 feet, all you have to do is roll this roll.
The roofing paper from the bottom portion up to the top and make your cuts again. They're, not all going to be the same exact cut arm, but that's. Ok, as long as they're beyond ten feet. That's. What you need so again.
This is me speeding up the video, so you can see this at a process a little bit faster, but it's. The same thing rolling from the bottom rolling your way up, making the cut start again until you get the number of sheets that you're, actually gonna need doing it.
This way is gonna save you. A lot of you know back aching and just overworking yourself with this portion once you have them cut out, just go ahead and roll them up. Um again, you're doing one by one here, you don't want us, you don't want to roll them all up together, because once you're on the roof, then you're.
Going to have to be taking them apart, so roll them up one by one arm, and then once you're done rolling these up just try to keep them as compact as possible. I know that these are really rough sheets to work with and it's very hard to get in very tight, but do whatever you can in order to get them as tight as possible, but not to ruin them.
And then, once you're done with this, we're, going to be taking these up to the top of the roof, all right. So, as you can see from the measurement here, these sheets are right. Around 39 inches just a little beyond just keep in mind that all you really need for overlapping on roofing is right around six inches, just based on the fact that we're, not going to trim anything off, and we have these already at 39.
Inches we're, going to do some 14 inches. 13 14 inch overlaps and this roof is going to be very watertight when going up and down a ladder with the material, especially um, going all the way up to the roof.
Heavy material causes you to go off-balance lean to one side, so just be very, very careful when dealing with material going up and down a roof. A lot of people stand up there. You know they put a rope on the bottom and somebody just pulls it from the bottom level up to the top.
When you're, doing this by yourself, just be careful, you can also invest in a harnessed of some sort to make sure that you don't fall off the roof when the wind comes, it could take. You so again use caution and my working partner just showed up my dad.
He's, ready to work, and we're ready to get this thing knocked out. So once you have all your material up to the top of the roof. This is how we put on this adhesive. You can use different types of tools, but what we have here is a broom that will fit inside of the bucket instead of dumping, the bucket on the roof, and making a huge mess.
We just dip the broom into the bucket itself and roll it onto the plywood. You don't have to cover the entire plywood. With this, you just want to get a good grip on the actual roofer paper, so that's.
That's. Basically, what we're doing here is getting a grip on the roofing paper that's. It we're, not covering the entire thing. So again, this is the tool that we're using. There are different tools to use, but a broom.
This thing runs like five dollars at Lowe's so again use the actual tools that you know you're me. It'll throw away in the future, and when doing this project, this portion of old clothes old shoes it'll get messy.
So, as you can see here, the large overhang initially that was cut out is not going to be for this portion, this side of the shed, my dad's using the smaller cut portion arm, and once he has this lined up.
I'm, going to do is line it up with the deciding and mainly where the actual edge, where the drip edge is going to go. That's. What you want to be lined up with this sheen so once you have that lined up or be rolling it down, just try to get as many air bubbles out as possible.
So when you pull this material, the air bubbles should come out once you have a good amount down, go ahead and tack this in with a roofie nail, don't nail, all of them in just tack this in order to keep it from Moving on you and just a tip for when using this actual adhesive, you are not clumping.
This one you're, not making it thicker than another portion of it. It's a very thin coat. This thing will get so strong and holding this roofing paper down that you don't need more than you believe you will need so thin coat on this stuff.
So you can see here how the edging of the roofing paper is near or flushed with the edging of the actual plywood itself, so that's, where the drip edge is going to go. You'll see it at the other end of the plywood.
We already made a small cut so that we're, not fighting with the roofing paper. Once we're, putting this drip edge on I don't want to cut it too short, and then you're, going to start once you have your first sheet down just based on the size of this roof itself.
You're, going to go ahead and move your way to the other side and start on that. You want to make sure they're overlapping from the top down. So you're, going to want to start from the bottom level first and work your way up and the same exact process once you have that overhang just go ahead and trim it to somewhat the size of where the drip edge is going to go, And then go ahead and start on your other two pieces of roofing paper until you get to the top, you can see that they're overlapping with the adhesive, as if you're, just putting a piece of roofing paper up there With no roofing paper on the bottom of it so kind of keep the same exact width, and you know that this roofing paper is going to be stuck to this thing.
For years to come. And once you're ready to go just go ahead and put your roofing paper on once you get down to the edge, you have somebody else, pull from one side, and get all the air bubbles out. Once you have the two sides down with the two pieces of roofing paper, you're, going to overlap the very top with the extra fifth piece of roofing paper we have here.
These are massive overlaps. Again, all you need is six inches, but we're, pretty much going 13 inches on this all right. So, as you can see here, I am starting with a drip edge. You can also see the types of nails that we're using.
I like using these green nails with a plastic top my dad enjoys using the ones without them it's up to you. It's, just your preference for whatever you want to use that's. Why they're mixed in the middle because I was on the edge and my dad was up on top and now getting started for the bird boards on the edges.
This is where the two rafters are on. The sides are the open space that's between the two rafters above the actual, true wood that we use for the sheathing. This portion right here is going to be cut out to size and then punctured with two holes inside and then filled with screening.
So all that needs to happen here is making the measurement transferring the measurement from between the two rafters that are sticking out on the edges arm against the actual framing portion transfer.
Those numbers onto this would make a chalk line and then use a skill saw or a worm drive of some sort to go ahead and make your cut and, as you can see here, the chalk lines are made. All the measurements are on this board and all we're going to do is cut from that chalk line cut on that chalk line from one side to the other.
Once you have that portion cut out, then you're, going to go ahead and make your individual markings that are between the two rafters and once you make those markings, then you're, going to cut those out.
So you have your individual pieces, and bird boards are very important just based on the fact that you want some sort of circulation running through that roof area, and it really is just as simple as that.
There's, really no hard thinking to this portion other than making some transfers of measurements onto this board and making your cuts. Once you have all your pieces cut out to length and size, then you're going to make your bird holes.
Now the holes are up to you, probably every six inches between from the left side to the bird hole to the other bird hole. To the left, to the right side, you know, however, you want to do it just make it look nice.
All you're going to be using here is make sure you use a drill that actually is powered through a cord. Unless you have a very powerful drill, battery-powered ones are just not going to work for this, so make sure you get yourself a powerful drill with a cord hooked up to it to be able to plug this thing in use a bit that's.
Going to be boring out whatever size holes, you want whether you want a two and a half-inch hole. A two-inch hole that it all depends on your preference. All we're using here is actually a hammer drill that has the ability to do an actual drill bit to it.
So it's, going to be a powerful, powerful enough drill for us to use on this project, and all we're going to do is make two holes in each board, and these things are going to be ready to go. Put up there with some, you know, finish nails and then, in the end, the result we're, going to be putting up some screening behind it, so that no actual birds go into it all right, so you can see where he'S actually putting these bird boards up, they look nice.
It's, going to enclose the remainder of the shed all right, so everything is put up now and it is all in place. Leveled off everything looks straight. You can see the bird board from this steel shot here.
You can see it. I have two holes in each bird board and that's. What's, going to create the circulation inside the actual structure itself? Alright, so, as my dad was working on these bird boards, I was working on the actual drip edge itself, so you can see that the drip edge is up.
That's. What's, going to make the water run off the actual side of the building, so it doesn't fall onto the building. Now you can't really do much about rain and wind. At the same time, that's, going to hit your shed no matter what, but the most you could protect it do it.
You know every structure needs out. Some drip edges so make sure you put these on in the corners. So you can see that all the bird boards are up now they have yet to be put. We have we haven't put the screening on there yet, but you can see a wide opening.
This is what your board bird boards are. Looking like from the inside, so what I purchased was just some regular screening like for a screen door, and this is what they look like here, and these things run about six or seven dollars, depending on the size that you're.
Getting and all you need is a six-dollar piece of material and that's, going to be stapled over these bird board holes. So big! Thank YOU. If you guys stuck with us this entire video, please subscribe, because the next video coming up is going to be about putting and installing shingles up on the roof.

Over the years, I probably seen every mistake possible made when installing metal roofing and honestly I've, made a few than myself. I put this section together to highlight a few of the most important areas that people commonly make mistakes on when they're installing their metal roof for more information on all these different practices.
Please refer to the specific section in the video covering what we're talking about people often make the mistake of lapping their panels the wrong way. Remember you always put the fat lip down. First, that's.
The lip that's got this extra wide little leg attached to the corrugation. You want to cover it so that the short lip is showing when you & # 39. Re done, pay close attention that each of your screws is set correctly.
You want to make sure that the screws are not over tightened, where the washer is splayed out invisible outside the metal band around the screw. You want to make sure that the screws not under tighten and the washer is a little bit loose.
You always want to put your screws on the flat place right in the middle of the panel. If you're, having trouble setting your screws and they wobble a lot and tend to fall off when you're, trying to put them in your panel check to make sure that your nut driver is in good working order.
If you ever find yourself thinking that you can fix a mistake or a difficult area of your roof by just laying on a thick layer of caulk after you're done. Think again, your goal needs to be waterproof.
Your house, using the panels and trim correctly caulk or sealants, should be a secondary, not a primary means of waterproofing and remember. You always want to put the caulk on underneath the panel or trim where it's protected from sunlight and weather, because it's, going to last a lot longer in those positions and if you just lay it on top of whatever You're.
Doing some people have the tendency to want to let their metal panel hang over the edge of the roof, either too much or too little. In most instances, I recommend only letting it overhang the roof, an inch and a half or two inches.
This applies to both the bottom end and the gable edge of the roof. The most common area on any roof to have a leak down. The road is around a penetration like this PVC pipe pay close attention to how you flash these sort of penetrations.
Most people have the tendency to just put a couple screws in the boot and lay the caulk on thick to keep the water out. When the caulk wears out, you're, going to have a leak there, when you're installing these boots make sure to put the sealant on underneath the base of the boot so that it's hidden from the sunlight And then put enough screws in the boot to hold the base down flat against the metal and those are the five most common mistakes to avoid when installing your metal roof to watch the 13 other segments of this video series, please go to roofing intelligence com.