Tommy we get a lot of people asking questions and searching for information on shingling their roof, and here's, the question any. What do you thing about homeowners? Doing their own roof work? Cuz? It can be kind of dangerous.
It's. Very dangerous: do you know that a third of construction fatalities happen from people falling off of roofs? I didn't know that, but it's, not surprising yeah. Well, if a homeowner is going to get up on a roof because they want to shingle it, they have to make sure they have the proper safety equipment, harness a line attached to the ridge or a staging with safety rails around it.
You have to protect yourself. All the things that a professional would bring you the job, which is why a lot of us just make the call absolutely, but maybe we've, got a lower roof. Maybe there's, a porch roof or a dog house, or a shed exactly you want to shingle that roof all right.
So how do we get started? Doing those well all right? Well, let's start at the bottom right here and start with piece of drip edge, aluminum drip edge. This is eight inch goes against the bottom like this, and I guess the process is the same, no matter what size roof we have right now.
I don't, know high what size, no matter, what it's. All the same. Now, this drip edge is actually to break the surface tension when the water runs down the shingle, its clings to the edge of the shingle, runs down and wants to run back up.
This stops it and runs down, and this little kicker right here makes the droplets fall away from the fascia boy and that's. Part of the reason why you do not have this tight to the fascia there's, a big gap there right, I like to have a gap about the thickness of my fingers, because I don't want the water droplets clinging to The fascia board causing it to rot, so what I like to do is I like to take it and push it up tight to the fascia board and I put a little pencil line at the top of it on each end of the house.
I then snap a line between them to get a nice straight edge, pull the drip edge down about a half an inch away from that line, and that creates a nice gap between the kicker and the fascia board. Now I just nail it in place now.
These are just inch and a quarter. Galvanized roofing nails and I'm going to do the same thing on the gable ends all right. Now we're, treating this roof as if it was an unheated building, all right, so no self sealing membrane at all.
Okay, so we're, going right to felt paper yeah, and this is actually a 30-pound felt paper. We don't, lay it right on top of the drip edge, just tack it in place. The purpose of this is what this is. Actually, it forms a release between the roof, sheathing and the underside of the roof shingles, so they can move independently, but it will also absorb any condensation if it should form under the roof.
Shingles. Now the shingle that we're going to put on this roof is a standard. Three tab. Shingle been around for years, one two: three right: now: it's, a 12 inch wide shingle, and if you notice this part right here, these are this is actually a tire that's activated by the hot Sun.
So when that Sun heats up the shingle, it actually glues the bottom part of the tab to the shingle less chance of it blowing up now the shingles are 36 inches wide. They are 12 inches high and we want to have six inch over overlap with a 5 inch reveal.
So this space right here from the bottom of the second shingles of the first shingle below it that you reveal exactly 5 inches. So now what I like to do is lay out the shingle onto the roof, so the shingles are 12 inches high.
So I hooked my tape on the bottom here and I slide it down 1/2 an inch now I can mark 12 inches to the top of the first row of shingles, so the shingle is going to overhang the drip edge, a half-inch right that helps from also For surface tension, so I want to mock 5 inch increments on both sides and snap, a line between that's, where our exposure exactly now, this chalk lines really ensure that our rows are going to be straight across the roof.
Now these vertical lines are placed every six inches and that will set our singles off perfect all the way up the roof. Okay. Now let me show you what I did here if you're, looking at the shingle here's, the bottom part of the shingle that you see as you look on the roof, I want to move this glue tab down as close To this leading edge as I can so I cut away that part of the shingle that you see that allows me to take this shingle and slide it down on to the roof.
Overhanging my drip edge about a quarter of an inch all right. We're ready for our first course now. This is a started strip right here. It actually does two things. First of all, it moves this glue strip down to the edge where I want it, lessening the chance for this to blow up, but also it fills the space right here.
So you, don't, see felt paper between it. Now I'm just going to nail this in place, holding the shingle on both vertical and horizontal line. Like that now I want to cut my shingle, so each row is offset six inches from the previous row you to cap the roof.
We cut. The shingle into each individual tab and overlap them five inches all right that's, how you shingle a roof to make it straight and water type nice job Tommy. Thank you. You you